In one of her feature moments, Ms Morisette penned a tune called "Ironic", ironically about coincidence. I guess pedants take their amusement where they can. Anyway, irony, or possibly coincidence took a hand in my own days in the extraordinary trek from Moscow to Tashkent. Basically I caught a cold only at the very end of my visit to Moscow, when the weather had taken a turn for the warmer. I was late for the convent tour because I elected to follow the tour company's instructions rather than my own map-reading! But there possibly isn't a better time to get taken ill than when one is stuck in a compartment for 3 solid days (my travel companions would probably disagree of course). Rest obligatorily taken. But the cabin was not a comfortable place: I think that they are trying to melt winter by sending superheated vehicles out to defrost the ice, because that is how it felt. Of course you couldn't go into the corridor because that was full of people and hence equally hot. And the gaps between carriages were Ice Station Zebra with footing so trecherous it would have been no suprise to see fallen goats underneath. So I was running a fever in a sweltering icebox in a superheated carriage travelling across a frozen wasteland. Nice. Only one person on the train appeared to speak any English - the conductor - but on being led to believe that I had no money which with to pay for the necessary services he would charge only me for, he lost interest, but was still friendly enough in passing. The group in the cabin were a great bunch (mum and daughter returning to Karshi) and a young man back from living the high life for a few days). Three days is a long time in those conditions, but we got on fine, possibly because they couldn't understand me.
By the time we approached the border with Kazakhstan, I was at my most feverishly unwell (not on the grand scale of things, just relative to this cold). And rather than worrying about the armed guards inspecting cases and grilling everyone in a marvellously suspicious manner I was more concerned about a lady I like (who doesn't reciprocate) and whether she'd found someone else. I look back in some amusement, as I really did have better things to worry about, and the Uzbek border reminded me of this later (see next posting)
14 December, 2007
Novodevichy
This is the convent used as, basically a storage place for wealthy families' wayward females. But it is built more like a fortress. Tsars' first wives and ambitious sisters were often placed here to take the veil, whether they terribly wished to or not.
The cemetary is another monument to the odd iconography of communism. It is where they put famous people, simple as that. But the definition of fame is not mine. Mid ranking military and party apparatchiks are unsurprisingly over-represented, but there are more flowers for personalities and characters. See Khruschev, Prokofiev, Checkhov (I have many others)... and possibly the most moving was Raisa Gorbachev.
To leave Moscow, you need to see the Peter the Great statue. I liked.
The cemetary is another monument to the odd iconography of communism. It is where they put famous people, simple as that. But the definition of fame is not mine. Mid ranking military and party apparatchiks are unsurprisingly over-represented, but there are more flowers for personalities and characters. See Khruschev, Prokofiev, Checkhov (I have many others)... and possibly the most moving was Raisa Gorbachev.
To leave Moscow, you need to see the Peter the Great statue. I liked.
12 December, 2007
Just quickly
I've got several updates as you might expect, but internet access from that finest of Stans - Uzbeki - is sorely limited and the blogspot website is generally unavailable. Nonetheless it appears to have made itself visible right now so I'm going to briefly update you:
1. Novodevichy Convent and Cemetary in Moscow is beautiful and interesting
2. 3 days on a train from Moscow to Tashkent is tough. Especially if you caught a cold on the last (and warmest) day in Moscow. It was like a frelling oven in there.
3. Border crossings on a train can be really dull, and not a little scary.
4. Haven't seen enough of Tashkent to comment yet - and may not at all. Big place and I need my energy.
5. Samarkand is stunning.
6. Bukhara is stunning. No, really.
I have written 'proper' blog content for these, and I have photos (lots) but my PC is not on the net here (this is from an internet cafe). Suffice to say I am well, if exhausted. Flying to Tashkent tomorrow and then the same to Almaty the day after. Then a tough train journey to Urumqi in China (yay!). Supposedly the border crossing takes 6 hours, during which you cannot leave the train or use the toilets. Could bring a new definition of 'fun'.
1. Novodevichy Convent and Cemetary in Moscow is beautiful and interesting
2. 3 days on a train from Moscow to Tashkent is tough. Especially if you caught a cold on the last (and warmest) day in Moscow. It was like a frelling oven in there.
3. Border crossings on a train can be really dull, and not a little scary.
4. Haven't seen enough of Tashkent to comment yet - and may not at all. Big place and I need my energy.
5. Samarkand is stunning.
6. Bukhara is stunning. No, really.
I have written 'proper' blog content for these, and I have photos (lots) but my PC is not on the net here (this is from an internet cafe). Suffice to say I am well, if exhausted. Flying to Tashkent tomorrow and then the same to Almaty the day after. Then a tough train journey to Urumqi in China (yay!). Supposedly the border crossing takes 6 hours, during which you cannot leave the train or use the toilets. Could bring a new definition of 'fun'.
05 December, 2007
Gum from the inside. It actually isn't that unusual, having seen similarly impressive supermarkets!
The Kremlin from across the Moscow river
The view from the Sparrow Hills across to the stadium (wherein England recently disgraced themselves - I was in Berlin at the time).
The bus tour I would say was not an essential element, and especialy not this time of year. I felt tired today and lacked the gumption for anything too extravagant (needing my initiative for tomorrow) so I found myself doing this. The traffic is not conducive and the short days are a limiting factor. It is good and the guide is knowledgeable, but there are other ways to see much of this.
One quick note about Russian women - nothing seedy I promise. There is something about the fur, the boots and the cold that seems to enhance the sensuality. Although as one acquaintance put it, it could just be the tight trousers. Yes, I suppose so.
The Kremlin from across the Moscow river
The view from the Sparrow Hills across to the stadium (wherein England recently disgraced themselves - I was in Berlin at the time).
The bus tour I would say was not an essential element, and especialy not this time of year. I felt tired today and lacked the gumption for anything too extravagant (needing my initiative for tomorrow) so I found myself doing this. The traffic is not conducive and the short days are a limiting factor. It is good and the guide is knowledgeable, but there are other ways to see much of this.
One quick note about Russian women - nothing seedy I promise. There is something about the fur, the boots and the cold that seems to enhance the sensuality. Although as one acquaintance put it, it could just be the tight trousers. Yes, I suppose so.
04 December, 2007
Brisk
It's a special place this. I've probably said that before, though. I keep getting told how crime-ridden it is and it puts me in something of a quandary. If I relax too much it adds a risk element and if I don't relax I don't enjoy! So far I am finding a balance, but the train journey will no doubt test that further.
But, as promised, the Kremlin!
Gum (the department store) and Red Square
Red Square (that's Lenin's tomb in front of the cupola)
The place is indeed geared up for massive parades
St Basil's (the Tetris Cathedral)
Are you wishing you hadn't asked for pictures yet? 'Cos here come more!
The tomb of the Unknown Soldier
The Tsar Cannon - biggets in the world but never fired as it would probably have broken
One of the many cathedrals in the Kremlin
Simply put, if you are in the area, get to the Kremlin, it is a tribute to power, authority, majesty and (where Ivan the Terrible gets in) monstrosity.
But, as promised, the Kremlin!
Gum (the department store) and Red Square
Red Square (that's Lenin's tomb in front of the cupola)
The place is indeed geared up for massive parades
St Basil's (the Tetris Cathedral)
Are you wishing you hadn't asked for pictures yet? 'Cos here come more!
The tomb of the Unknown Soldier
The Tsar Cannon - biggets in the world but never fired as it would probably have broken
One of the many cathedrals in the Kremlin
Simply put, if you are in the area, get to the Kremlin, it is a tribute to power, authority, majesty and (where Ivan the Terrible gets in) monstrosity.
03 December, 2007
Early piccies
There will be more...
The view from my hotel room
Very high and very cold. But dead nice
The view from my hotel room
Very high and very cold. But dead nice
02 December, 2007
Moscow
I am sure you were all most concerned, but worry no longer! I am in Moscow and all appears as well as usual. There is snow on the spires and ice underfoot, but it is as beautiful as you might think. There will have to be photos at some point but I have not taken any yet.
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