I am now in Guangzhou. Not because I wanted to be, but because, I need to be here tomorrow. Staying in Guiyang would have jeopardised that as the weather continued to deteriorate. Missing even one flight would have made tomorrow a complete arse. It still might be, but I have attempted to reduce the risk.
So yet more roads were closed in Guiyang, meaning that the very limited programme on offer was reduced yet again. I like the plac well enough, but I can't pretend to have any abiding fond memories. Indeed, the rather excellent hotel there was unfortunate to have its power cut off last night, adding to my list of (admittedly minor) woes. Ho diddly hum.
On my way back to NZ. Very tired and a little flat. I think what I have done will hit me over the next few days, weeks and months. And, let's face it, years.
25 January, 2008
Back from Anshun
Braving the cold, we made it back from Anshun to Guiyang. Sadly it looks like this was the last of my sightseeing in the region as the conditions are just too unfavourable. The cold is not extreme but in an area that is unused and hence unprepared for it, the reaction is appropriate.
We stopped on the way at a traditional Miao (that's a minority group not a cat network) batik studio and then on to Tianlong to see a Han (that's the majority) culture village. This is a very old place, and there was the Ground Opera, a precursor of the Beijing Opera, performed before battle to scare the enemy. Well, it was certainly not long enough to bore them (b'dum tish). I shouldn't be mean - it was interesting and you do get an idea, even if the Beijing Opera was so much more refined.
Guizhou (the province) is not especially well-known especially outside China. The falls are gaining a reputation (although as I intimated, the water-curtain cave deserves more recognition), but there would need to be a fundamental rethink to get the place really buzzing. The roads are poor, the town centres are a bit disorganised and there isn't much English spoken. On the other hand, the people are really friendly, there is a buzz about the place and the scenery is startling. It is basically a gently rolling countryside (admittedly not well suited for airports and the like) but with lumps. Big ones, small ones and everything in between. Everywhere. Just rock. Sticking out of the ground with a small amount of vegetation on top. It is unreal (the weather and driving conditions precluded pictures of this). But, and this is what annoyed me, on top of so many of these fantastic (in the classical sense of the word) protuberances was a pylon, telephone line or mobile phone tower. Like putting a rubber band on a beautiful face it looked ridiculous and marred the view. But fixable, if they really want the tourists to come. And I think it would happen. Guizhou is a fine place.
Let us hope that the airport is sufficiently clear on Saturday morning, else I'd just have to stay here... Hmm. Local sights only tomorrow.
Here are the piccies
We stopped on the way at a traditional Miao (that's a minority group not a cat network) batik studio and then on to Tianlong to see a Han (that's the majority) culture village. This is a very old place, and there was the Ground Opera, a precursor of the Beijing Opera, performed before battle to scare the enemy. Well, it was certainly not long enough to bore them (b'dum tish). I shouldn't be mean - it was interesting and you do get an idea, even if the Beijing Opera was so much more refined.
Guizhou (the province) is not especially well-known especially outside China. The falls are gaining a reputation (although as I intimated, the water-curtain cave deserves more recognition), but there would need to be a fundamental rethink to get the place really buzzing. The roads are poor, the town centres are a bit disorganised and there isn't much English spoken. On the other hand, the people are really friendly, there is a buzz about the place and the scenery is startling. It is basically a gently rolling countryside (admittedly not well suited for airports and the like) but with lumps. Big ones, small ones and everything in between. Everywhere. Just rock. Sticking out of the ground with a small amount of vegetation on top. It is unreal (the weather and driving conditions precluded pictures of this). But, and this is what annoyed me, on top of so many of these fantastic (in the classical sense of the word) protuberances was a pylon, telephone line or mobile phone tower. Like putting a rubber band on a beautiful face it looked ridiculous and marred the view. But fixable, if they really want the tourists to come. And I think it would happen. Guizhou is a fine place.
Let us hope that the airport is sufficiently clear on Saturday morning, else I'd just have to stay here... Hmm. Local sights only tomorrow.
Here are the piccies
23 January, 2008
Huongguoshu Waterfall
Well, I had my whine and despite that we made it out of town today. I am of course harsh on Guiyang. It was a pleasant place and you saw the pictures of the pavilion and mountain (hill). And I had splendid Dong and Miao food, and I was even sung at by the Dong waitresses to ensure I drank. Oh well, under such duress... But I didn't want to end up with a situation where I went to places I didn't really want to go to and then be told at the end that, since I had accepted substitutes, I was entitled to no refund. See? I'm pragmatic and tight.
So we got away to Huangguoshu, near Anshun. The falls were not as big as I had expected, but the walk was charming (with plenty of steps) and the views were lovely. But the curtain cave running behind the falls was wonderful. Just the feeling of the cascade above and around you made the trip unquestionably worthwhile. Not as stunning as many places, but a better feel and more fun. I'm so glad I made it.
This is lazy, but so much easier for me. Sorry.
So we got away to Huangguoshu, near Anshun. The falls were not as big as I had expected, but the walk was charming (with plenty of steps) and the views were lovely. But the curtain cave running behind the falls was wonderful. Just the feeling of the cascade above and around you made the trip unquestionably worthwhile. Not as stunning as many places, but a better feel and more fun. I'm so glad I made it.
This is lazy, but so much easier for me. Sorry.
Jade Snow Mountain Piccie
22 January, 2008
Luck Ran Out
Yesterday my luck finally ran out. Not in the worst ways possible and nothing too serious but annoying nonetheless.
Went for a late evening sauna and massage (I can almost hear the raised eyebrows from here, thanks) and put my clothes in the locker. Can't take it with you. When finished I put my stuff back on and realised I no longer had my phone or cash. Seeing as I'm not entirely stupid I hadn't brought my passport and wallet so I didn't lose out big time. Insurance will cover it. Sadly I had to spend some time with the police to file the report but had plenty of time as the day's schedule was not too busy. My guide (who had to do the translation) already had a fairly ordinary opinion of me and this didn't help. Meh.
So anyway, I flew to Kunming. All good. My contact there made sure I was all set for the transfer to go to Guiyang. This was required because for some reason the contact in Lijiang hadn't booked the flight to Kunming. Hmmm. Anyway, we flew to Guiyang, went above the airport while they attempted to defrost the runway, but then they gave up and closed the airport. We then had to fly back to Kunming. Thankfully, China Airlines put us up in a hotel for the night (no hot water and shared rooms, but it isn't like I had a night booked in a 4 star hotel... no wait YES I DID! But the agent here didn't get me sorted - I'll be vainly asking for a refund on that night...).
But this morning, the flight reached Guiyang. Met at the airport by the local contact who then said that there would need to be some changes. All innocence I ask what. Apprently all the roads out of town are closed. Guiyang is not an especially interesting town (although this is a nice hotel): it is the places around that I want to go to. Near Anshun there is a big waterfall, and Kaili sounds like a fascinating town. That's why I came here. Not for Guiyang.
So hmmm, bitch and gripe. I hope to get to Huongguoshu falls and to Kaili. If I can't make the rest I'll be okay, but those two are high priorities
Ah heck. A few annoying days isn't going to put the damper on an extraordinary thing.
Went for a late evening sauna and massage (I can almost hear the raised eyebrows from here, thanks) and put my clothes in the locker. Can't take it with you. When finished I put my stuff back on and realised I no longer had my phone or cash. Seeing as I'm not entirely stupid I hadn't brought my passport and wallet so I didn't lose out big time. Insurance will cover it. Sadly I had to spend some time with the police to file the report but had plenty of time as the day's schedule was not too busy. My guide (who had to do the translation) already had a fairly ordinary opinion of me and this didn't help. Meh.
So anyway, I flew to Kunming. All good. My contact there made sure I was all set for the transfer to go to Guiyang. This was required because for some reason the contact in Lijiang hadn't booked the flight to Kunming. Hmmm. Anyway, we flew to Guiyang, went above the airport while they attempted to defrost the runway, but then they gave up and closed the airport. We then had to fly back to Kunming. Thankfully, China Airlines put us up in a hotel for the night (no hot water and shared rooms, but it isn't like I had a night booked in a 4 star hotel... no wait YES I DID! But the agent here didn't get me sorted - I'll be vainly asking for a refund on that night...).
But this morning, the flight reached Guiyang. Met at the airport by the local contact who then said that there would need to be some changes. All innocence I ask what. Apprently all the roads out of town are closed. Guiyang is not an especially interesting town (although this is a nice hotel): it is the places around that I want to go to. Near Anshun there is a big waterfall, and Kaili sounds like a fascinating town. That's why I came here. Not for Guiyang.
So hmmm, bitch and gripe. I hope to get to Huongguoshu falls and to Kaili. If I can't make the rest I'll be okay, but those two are high priorities
Ah heck. A few annoying days isn't going to put the damper on an extraordinary thing.
20 January, 2008
Testing the night away
I am now seeing if I can successfully post from an email: there are technical difficulties preventing me from offering the usual 'high-quality' service.
Yesterday I arrived in Lijiang. If I say this place is nice, then you could reasonable describe the sun as 'warm'. There are streams running everywhere throughout the old city, there is traditional dancing every night (in which even I joined), the friendliness of everyone is hard to match and then whole place is so damn lovely that you just don't want to leave. And the weather is sublime.
To get from Dali here, I went via a traditional Bai village and had a look round. So that's temples, mountains, tradition, weather and people all in favour of Dali. I can't remember what I've already told you, but it is indeed great.
And then Lijiang. People described it as just plain better than Dali. At which I pooh-poohed. My wrongness is once again evident. It isn't entirely genuine (most of the city was flattened by an earthquake) but has been rebuilt in traditional style and is basically a tourist trap. But in the best way I've ever seen. I'll post some pictures if (1) this goes up and (2) someone tells me that it has (I can't check). If pictures appear then assume I know or have already acted. Cheers.
Today I went up a mountain. Didn't climb (it was proper high, like) but took the cable car. So high that many people took oxygen. I should have, but instead elected to take the light-headed route. But wow. The southernmost glacier north of the equator. Hope you like the pictures when they come...
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
