03 November, 2007

Italia Italia

Let's think about how this could have gone but didn't.

If I had written this a few hours ago, it would have been a more predictable entry for those familiar with my prejudices. I don't have many, but there are two in particular: Liverpool FC and Italy. The Liverpool one is irrelevant right now, but the other.... oh boy. The Bernina Express is not a superfast sewing machine, but a railway journey running from (among other places) St Moritz to Tirano (no, I didn't know where it was either - northern Italy). There was apparently an informative helpful voiceover during the journey, but what with the noisily posturing folk on board, along with loud cildren (who were, at on extended point, being entertained with songs), I never heard a word of it. Taking picture from a train is frustrating and there were more misses than hits, but what I got still suggests something of the majesty of the journey. I almost felt a tear form when I saw the glacier.































































Anyway, after this fabulous, but migraine-inducing, I needed to find a PC to get the name of the hotel from my booking email (I know I should have written it down, but...), and I had an hour and a half in Tirano. What could go wrong? Well, nowhere appeared to have internet. Nowhere. So I thought to wait until tourist info opened. When they (eventually) did, they pointed me at the one place in town - the library (also only just opening). However, all there PCs were taken with quite the slowest and most easily distracted users imaginable. I just want to check one email. No joy, and had to head back for the train. Okay, I've got an hour at Milan station. I hate Milan ever since... wibbly-wobbly lines of flashback... I'll tell later. There was no internet point at the station. I'll ask information! No dummy, me. He barely spoke a word of a civilised tongue (i.e. not Italian or German :-P) and said there was nowhere. Grrrr. All my petty jealousies and annoyances continued to simmer. Brainstorm occured and I realised that I could see my internet browsing history without an internet connection. So I could at least see the name of the hotel - hurrah. With renewed hope I boarded the train for Stresa (alongside 'Elbows' the magazine woman and her son the staring freak). Got off the train to find no taxi, no staff, no map, no nothing. Just a couple that spoke no English. I was, as you can possibly imagine, preparing the first draft of this blog even then. However, I then went to a local restaurant to ask if they could call a taxi for me, and they were polite, friendly and eminently helpful, seeing me on my way to a safe arrival at a charming hotel. So good was this end to the day, that I can look back on a day of no missed connections, magnificent scenery, fascinating towns (one place had a circular viaduct - has to be seen to be believed - and in another the railway line ran down the middle of the high street!) and crystal clear lakes. Rather than loud, bullying, obnoxious, lazy and selfish people.

Yes, it worked out really well.

It is also worth mentioning that, down the salt mine, I met a Western Australian (and his wife) who was of Italian descent and a Liverpool and I liked him enormously, so what use are stereotypes anyay?

02 November, 2007

More St Moritz

As I prepare to move on from probably the prettiest (but also the snobbiest - you should see the shops here!) town I've yet visited, I thought I'd give you a couple more images.

Beautiful, irresistable, but not really for me. You know what I'm talking about.
And hey! That's my shadow in there!























01 November, 2007

Smoking ban

Now lookie here Europe: this would be a Good Thing. I had forgotten why I stopped going to pubs and bars, because it makes clothes smell, food taste bad, eyes water and me feel sick. Last night I went to a restaurant with a no-smoking area and was put at an adjacent table to 3 smokers. Apparently I was at the edge of the no smoking area.

That dog won't hunt, monsignor.

St Moritz today


What a sight.

Knowing me, Knowing you, Praha

Okay, I could have gone with a Take On Me gag somehow (using Pra-ha) but couldn't quite make it work (even worse than the one I did use really).

Probably the single most photogenic place I've been, despite the gap-toothed harpies accosting innocent passers-by first thing in the morning. This will be why there are more photos than usual. Sorry.

This is the market square. I didn't get a good one of the more historically important Wenceslaus square, but this one is prettier anyway.

Great looking clock, eh? Every hour crowds gather round to see the chimes, then wander off asking why they bothered.

A Gothic Tower. Prague survived the wars prettu much untouched. Remarkable.

A modern statue that is rather good! For Kafka - and looking at it, it could hardly be for anyone else

The old new synagogue. Where the golem was made. So be nice.

I was the only person on out tour to give a stuff about Brahe and Kepler. Made me feel like a snob.

Cool church in the palace area. Probably Baroque - so many of the most tacky ones were...

A gloriously silly decoration. Painted on, rather than sculpted

Today's fountain.

St Vitus cathedral.

Can you spot where the communists subtly edited out the name of the guy they didn't like?

The famous Charles Bridge. As you can see, popular with tourists even on these days.


Budapest

Budapest and Prague clearly highlighted the difference a good guide can make. I did the walking tour in each (and can heartily recommend these everywhere you might go, although I have no regrets about the Berlin hop-on hop-off one). Both guides were pleasant young ladies, but their attitudes and relevant knowledge could hardly have been further apart. This one was bossy, forthright, impatient and superb. She knew every answer, and would generally respond with 'just wait and you'll hear'. We were driven along at a fair old rate and were like little obedient sheep things. Cheap food and good beer. A fine place.

Hero square - the Hungarians appear great believers in numerology (and numeronomy presumably) so the numbers 7 (for the 7 tribes) and 896 (I think - the year of unification) play a big part in the symbolism.



This is Anonymus. He was the first to write history for Hungarians. If you touch his pen then you will get good luck. I might have had the luck and just chucked it away. No way of knowing really...

The Parliament looking ghostly alongside the impressive Danube (sorry Vienna).

And the obligatory fountain, up in the palace complex in Pest.

30 October, 2007

Welcome to Prague

Just a quickie to inform you of the overly warm welcome I received in this fine city.

I step off the train at 06:15 or whenever thinking I'll see what's in the immediate vicinity of the station and am almost instantly accosted by what might fairly be described as a low-rent prostitute. Not something that happens to me every day, I assure you (first time this trip, for example). I fend off politely, then less politely and then run away Sir Robin-style (Monty Python and the Holy Grail) into the nearest posh hotel, with the loathsome drab hanging off my arm. Into which she FOLLOWS ME. Thankfully a few firm words from the reception desk and a gesticulated phone soon chased her away. I must be the easiest-looking mark in town. At least at that time of day. Yikes.

Fortunately Prague looks gorgeous and I'm looking forward to seeing more of it. And not haggard strumps.

Budapest

My word, that's a good place. I may have the time to return to one or two oif these destinations and this is a good one. It is a bit spread out for someone who'd rather walk than take a bus/tram, but it is fantastic. Great buildings and a friendly atmosphere, even if some of the people look a little leery.

Sadly, I'm not sure the pictures will do anything resembling justice: the weather, while far from cold, was grey and a bit misty. You'll see soon. Buy stuff away from tourist bits, climb the hill rather than taking the funicular and drink the wine. Ossum. I spent some of the afternoon in a wine tasting room (you may be aware oif my interests in the regard). I am not familiar with most of the varietals I tried, but I am in favour of Tokay, possibly the first sweet wine to really charm me. There is, of course, a wide range of flavours, but two of the three I tried were well worth having, and superior to the closest I've had in NZ. But I've not had that many back home.

29 October, 2007

Vienna

Loads of great things to see here, such as Karlskirche, currently being repaired, and looking extraordinary:



This is the Arts Museum:

And then the Rathaus:

The main palace entrance

I dunno. Sorry.


Not-so-blue Danube

Salzburg piccies

And things near Salzburg. The very name means Salt, so it is no surprise that Salzburg has salt mining in the region. What is a surprise is how superb the salt mine tour is: flash technology, fun slides, interesting science (no, really!). Loved it. Even if

On the way to the salt mine in Berchtesgaten, you get sights like this:

Plus, you can also spot the Eagle's Nest - one of Hitler's places. The rest of the Nazi village up there got bombed or simply detonated into oblivion to ensure it didn't become a shrine.

Apparently, the mountain over which the von Trapps flee in The Sound of Music leads straight into Berchtesgaten, so not great navigation by the submarine captain there (yes, I know it is just a movie...).
Yes, Mozart came from here. Not that you'd ever have the chance to forget, what with the chocolates, museums, t-shirts and all the rest.

But the fortress up above has some fabulous views.

28 October, 2007

Oh

Vienna. I would so like to put some pictures up. Vienna is quite lovely. As you'd expect from the hub of a massive empire, money was not in short supply during much of its history. And because it has had many glorious successes, it is not dependent on a single entity for its self-promotion (pay attention Mozart-salesmen in Salzburg).
Tonight, I'm going to be terribly touristy and listen to a highlights package of Viennese music. Your mocking is expected, but it means nothing to me. The rhythm is calling.

Good day, all told. Saw many sights and spent a lot of time admiring art (despite the disappointing Bosch) in the Art History museum. It is an impressive town, but, like some other places, not a place I'd like to call home. It's a big city. Munich is the biggest city I've felt really comfortable in.

Bratislava (briefly) and Budapest tomorrow. Busy, busy, busy...