From North (Bei) to South (Nan)

Nanjing makes Beijing look sane. It's a crazy, colourful, overpriced, huge, fragmented, inconsistent, fun place. It's hard not to enjoy yourself even when just milling along with the hordes. People just stop for no reason, bully past and generally live absolutely for themselves, but with no malice whatsoever.

The Confucius temple is one of the major drawcards of the town, but ain't all that. Expensive and not very big, with much of the signage being only in Chinese. On that subject, even Pinyin (the alphabeticised written language) is very rare here. Like I say, it is a chaos.

I've finally understood some of my own suggestions, and they aren't all that realistic. For example, I was going to go to Shanghai before Huang Shan, but it is the wrong direction from Nanjing. Dummy. On the bright side, it makes it easier to stay around here for a bit and then head to Shanghai later as planned.

Happy New Year to you all!

I'll just sneak a couple of photos in here while no-one's looking...

Summer Palace in Winter

Cold here today. But thankfully the sun came out, and the massive summer palace complex shone.

It is all set in a delightful park


A boat made of marble. Well the base is. Just another pavilion really, but very interesting.


Another long corridor:

The weather was rather kind-looking


There are lots of interesting places dotted aroundthe palace, such as this very large pavilion and stone bridge


The view across the lake:

Makes a change from lions: a kyrin

The cheesiest grin I've seen in China.


It's early and Forest lost, so maybe I'll be more chatty later.

Temples

Very touristy day, going round the two central (and rather tourist-infested) temples, one Confucian and one a Lama Buddhist. Both beautiful as might be expected, but the Buddhist one especially was active and as a tourist I felt a little uncomfortable. Just a voyeur. Nonetheless, the 19 metre statue (carved from a single piece of sandalwood in Nepal!) is extraordniary. I actually did just stand there with my mouth hanging open. Can't take pictures there though. Sorry
Many buildings here have guardian lions: the male, traditionally on the right side, has a paw on an orb or ball. The female on the left has a cub.

This one appears to have a walkway between the temples (there must have been 10 or so in the complex)

And lots of incense.

The Confucian temple was more my thing. Exam results from hundreds of years ago were carved in stone and placed here.

Free standing gates impress the visitor

There is also a chamber wherein the Emperor gave his lessons

Wall

So, who on earth thought it would be a good idea to do this during winter? The usually treacherous wall became decidedly dangerous with a dusting of snow, at least to a man with no apparent goat genes. On the other hand, it did look rather nice.

In one of my favourite shows (Futurama) there is a scene where, in the year 3000, a hole is knocked in the Wall, and after a few seconds some Mongol horsemen come charging in as if they've been waiting there for 2000 years. Very funny, but not, sadly, true. We climbed up from the Mongolian side and there was nobody there.


This particular stretch of wall is about 8km long with some cracked and broken bits (scary) and some smooth bits (too slippery to walk on). That's about 30 of the towers. Every time you stop concentrating (you know, to think about breathing, drinking water) you fall down. On a rock wall. I also got adopted by a guide who was clearly trying to win some kind of "who can kill a tourist fastest" and selected the fat, old one as an easy mark. Oh boy, we went quickly (for me). I hit the floor a couple of times, but not unreasonably, I think. I'll be paying the price for that, though.

But, it was incredible.


This shows the contrast between the 500 year old bits (on the left) and the reconstructed bits (on the right)

It's not an easy trek.

This is what I wanted to see. Glorious.


You end up crossing a chain bridge. See?

The view from it is pretty lovely, and nice to have some variety after the imperious hills



The post-walk food and beers did taste all the better. I was exhausted, drenched and cold. But actually a little proud of myself. Sorry about that.

It. Was. Great.

Forbidden Palace

Today was a day of wondering around and seeing Beijing. It isn't quite what was expected, but very close: there aren't vast numbers of people in all places at all times, and there aren't swarms of bicycles cloggin up the roads at all hours. But it has that feel. I think this may just be a winter thing. Plus, it is possible that people drive to work because it is too polluted to ride. A self-fulfilling prophecy if ever I heard one...

In the park just north of the Forbidden City there is lots of the exercising groups, using feathered ball-juggling, disk batting, and ribbon dancing. Beautful and elegant.

One emperor hung himself from here after the people revolted during a terrible famine, when taxation of the poor was the main reason for the deaths (cf Irish famine). At least that is what the info boards say.


The park is full of lovely little buildings

The view of the Forbidden City from this park

Within the Forbidden City are loads of small palaces and a few big ones.
A man-made hill to give all the benefits of hill climbing, without needing to leave the complex



A single slab of marble, moved by digging vast numbers of wells along the routes and pouring water on the road to form at ice trail that could be used to slide.

It is cold (see the frozen river) but very little snow.

I had space and time in some parts, and I really appreciated it

A lovely wall - used to put privacy around the garden without installing a gate or door.

According to the Roger Moore audio commentary, this is the most beautiful roof in the palace (not open to the public). Hard to argue.

Merry Christmas

Made it. Christmas Day in Beijing, and the last day of the 'organised' tour: my pre-booked itinerary. I haven't done much in BJ (as 'tis known, honest) so I'll be staying here a little while longer before heading down to Nanjing and Zhenjiang.
Temple of Heaven Park (look within that middle arch)







The Fasting Palace

The Echo Wall


Tiananmen Square

Xi'an update

I like Xi'an
This now looks like China as I imagined it. I was given a very odd look by my guide when I noted the lovely dragon and lion carvings on the bridge. "This is China. They are everywhere." So I'm a wide-eyed tourist. Who'd have thought?

The wall and the gates are stunning. It is a shame that the ubiquitous mist masks some of it, but even so, the scale is impressive.
The Big Wild Goose Pagoda is impressive, and set in a peaceful and relaxing temple grounds. The kind of place you would simply migrate to if you lived locally.

And yet another very fine museum, although the Urumqi one had the edge for me.
Error from the other day: the ancient city is Jiaohe, but then I'm sure you already spotted that...


Also went to the Great Mosque (surrounded by the Muslim bazaar - the most fantastic food as you might expect) and the Drum Tower. Great places all.